Tree Planting FAQs
- Why use treeshelters?
- Shelterguard or treeguard?
- What if my site is very exposed?
- Spirals or welded Guards?
- Which way up should my spirals be used?
- Which height?
- Which diameter?
- Can I use a bamboo cane with Shelterguard/Treeguard?
- My trees are too big to fit a preformed guard over the top.
- Can I use Treeguard/Shelterguard Plus to protect against sheep?
- My existing guards are too short.
- What maintenance will my guards need?
- What should I do with my guards when they are no longer required?
- Mulching: treespat or square?
- Mulching: which size mat?
- How should I anchor mulching materials?
Why use treeshelters?
Tree shelters of various designs have been produced since the early 1980s and are now widely accepted as a proven aid in the establishment of both broadleaves and conifers. As well as providing support and protection from browsing animals, shelters create a greenhouse environment, stimulating rapid height growth, particularly in slow growing broadleaves such as oak. Individual guards enable small, notchable plants to be used, without a need for costly rabbit fencing, and aid weed control by marking planting positions and screening from spraying.
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Shelterguard or Treeguard?
Tree Shelters – square mesh guards with a polythene film. Offer the same level of browsing protection as guards, but have the added benefit of creating a micro-climate that will stimulate growth. This is generally advantageous to most broadleaved species, providing a good start for the tree. The exception to this rule is beech, which can suffer from sooty mould in an unventilated shelter environment. We are able to provide microperforated shelters for use with beech.
Tree Guards - square mesh plastic netting guards which offer protection from browsing animals, but do not increase either the temperature or humidity around the plant and so do not stimulate growth significantly. Generally used for conifers, which would suffer in a shelter environment. May increasingly be used in a warming climate. It is important to be aware that the leading shoots can sometimes protrude through the mesh; however, if checked as part of an annual maintenance schedule, these can simply be returned into the tubes.
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What if my site is very exposed?
If an enclosed shelter is used on a very exposed site, it is possible for the trees to start of very well, in their sheltered microclimate, but then when they reach the top of the shelter, they can receive a severe check to their growth as they are not acclimatised to the harsher natural environment. In this situation we would recommend either the use of our open mesh Treeguard Plus, or alternatively we also offer a High Exposure version of our Shelterguard material. This is designed so that the polythene film will break down much earlier than usual, providing the head start for the plants that they would receive in a shelter, but allowing them to be more gradually acclimatised.
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Spirals or welded guards?
Spirals provide a low cost option for protecting single stemmed seedlings and transplants. They are most commonly used for hedging plants, but are not recommended for beech or evergreen species.
Welded guards such as the Shelterguard and Treeguard Plus range are much stronger than spirals and offer increased space for the growing tree. They are formulated to last at least 5 years, as opposed to around 3 years for spirals, so provide a much longer term option. They are also more sturdy and, providing they are well staked, offer protection against heavier animals such as deer and sheep.
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Which way up should my spirals be used?
It is extremely important that spirals are erected correctly. If they are put on upside down they are likely to fail to unwind, and could constrict the growth of the tree. To identify the top/ bottom of the spiral, the simplest way is to insert your index finger and thumb in one end and push them apart. The bottom will open up, where as the top will not.
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Which height guard should I use?
The following table gives the Forestry Commission’s guidance on which height of guard provides adequate protection against common browsing animals:
| Voles | 20cm | Voleguards |
| Rabbits | 60cm | Spirals, Shelterguards & Treeguards |
| Hares | 75cm | Spirals, Shelterguards & Treeguards |
| Muntjac Deer | 1.2m | Shelterguards & Treeguards |
| Roe Deer | 1.2m | Shelterguards & Treeguards |
| Red/Fallow Deer | 1.8m | Shelterguards & Treeguards |
It is advisable to always protect against the tallest animals present in your area.
Shrub guards are only available in 60cm heights, however as shrubs are usually multi-stemmed, occasional browsing should not be too much of a problem. If taller guards are required, flat pieces of material are available at any height in 15cm and 20cm diameters.
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Which diameter guard should I use?
There is no definitive answer as to which diameter guard should be used. The basic rule is that the more space a plant is given, the better it should grow, however in most situations, there has to be a compromise between cost vs space for the tree. The narrowest diameter spiral shelter (38mm) is generally only recommended for small leaved, single stemmed species, as it does not provide much room for larger leaves to unfurl.
If a multi-stemmed shrub is being planted, a shrub shelter should be used. Again which diameter is used, is purely a compromise between space vs cost.
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Can I use a bamboo cane with Shelterguard/Treeguard?
Although we would strongly recommend the use of a timber stake, rather than a cane, to reduce the chance of shelters falling over and taking the tree with them, a stout bamboo cane, at least 14-16 lb/100, can be used on sheltered sites with 60cm Shelterguard/Treeguards. If you are planning on using a cane, it is important to inform us when placing your order, as we will need to change the pre-fitted nylon tie, the standard tie will not pull tight round a cane. We would also recommend the use of two canes with shrub diameters.
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My trees are too big to fit a preformed guard over the top.
In this situation there are two options available: using a roll of material and cutting lengths off yourself, or buying flat pieces of material cut to size. With both of these options you will need to make up the guard yourself, this is achieved by either stapling the guard to a timber stake, or tying it to the stake with nylon ties.
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Can I use Treeguard/Shelterguard Plus to protect against sheep?
You can use a 1.2m x 80-110mm Shelterguard or Treeguard Plus, however it is recommended that you use either two stakes, or one substantial stake, as sheep are likely to knock the guards over if they are not well supported. If you opt to use a stake that is larger than 5cm diameter, please be aware that the ties that come pre-fitted will be too short to fit round it.
Your other option is to use a cut piece of material, and attach it to a triangle of stakes. This produces a very sturdy guard, but is a bit more labour intensive.
My existing guards are too short.
It is possible to extend the height of existing Shelterguard/Treeguards if you find, for example, that there are deer present which you hadn’t anticipated. The usual method of doing this is to attach a cut piece of Treeguard (usually 60cm x 14cm) to a bamboo cane, and then attach the cane to the existing stake, using the original nylon tie. You might find you want to use an extra tie to hold the bamboo cane more securely.
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What maintenance will my guards need?
We would strongly recommend checking your guards on, at least, an annual basis. If there is a lot of weed growth, the ties can be loosened and the guards slid up the stake & weeds removed from the base of the tube. If Treeguard (mesh guards) have been used, it is advisable to check that the leading shoots have not protruded out the side of the netting. As long as the they are not left for too long, they can simply be pushed back into the guard. The other maintenance issue that we have come across is ants filling enclosed shelters or spirals with soil. If this occurs it is advisable to lift the guards and remove the soil to prevent damage to the tree.
It is generally recommend that some sort of weed control program is allowed for in the first few years after planting, to reduce competition for water, nutrients and light. This can either be spraying, or the use of a mulch; either bark or, for a more permanent solution, one of the photodegradable or biodegradable mulching materials that we sell.
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What should I do with my guards when they are no longer required?
All our standard guards are photodegradable, which means that they will become brittle with age, and break up, but they will not biodegrade. We have recently established a partnership with Agri.cycle, an agricultural recycler, which will enable all our guards/shelters to be recycled. Details of this can be found by clicking on the ‘Recycling Scheme’ button on the left hand menu. We would like to encourage all our customers to consider collecting up their old shelters for recycling, as this will significantly reduce the amount of plastic waste left in the environment, and enable the material to be used again to manufacture new products.
We are also developing a biodegradable guard, which is currently available as a trial product. These guards will be able to be left on the trees to break down naturally, though in some circumstances it may still be desirable to collect up the guards as they may look unsightly whilst they are breaking up.
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Mulching: treespat or square?
A square is, as it’s name suggests, is a square of material with a slit cut in the middle. They can be used with any tree which is small enough for the slit to fit over the top. A treespat is a slightly more advanced design, and has a sewn seam which creates an overlap from the middle of the mat to one edge, enabling it to be fitted round larger trees and also providing less opportunity for weed growth around the slit. It is important to remember that an extra peg will be needed for 50cm2 treespats, for the overlap, and two extra for the 1m 2 size.
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Mulching: which size mat?
There is no definitive answer as to whether a 50cm2 or 1m2 mat should be used. Whilst a 1m2 mat will offer greater mulching ability, it is also more expensive, and so the deciding factor is usually based on budget.
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How should I anchor mulching materials?
Photodegradable materials (polythene, spun-bonded & woven polypropylene) can be anchored by lifting turfs round the corners/edges, and burying the edge of the material. This method is especially recommended for polythene, which can tear if it is pegged. The alternative method is to peg the corners with either plastic or steel anchoring pegs. This method is especially recommended on exposed sites. It is recommended that an anchoring peg is used every 50cm, therefore four pegs per 50cm2 Square, and eight pegs for a 1m2 square. Treespats will need five pegs for a 50cm2 mat and nine for the larger version.
Biodegradable Jute materials should never be buried, as this will severely reduce their lifespan, by initiating the biodegradation process. We now offer a biodegradable plastic anchoring peg for use with our jute products.
